EMERSON White Rodgers1F56N-444 Snap-Action Thermostat
YOUR THERMOSTAT REPLACES
|Standard Heating & Cooling Systems – 4 or 5 wires
Standard Heat Only Systems Standard Central Air Conditioning Gas or Oil Heat
Hydronic (Hot Water) Zone Heat – 2 wires Electric Furnace
Heat Pump (No Aux or Emergency Heat)
|Heat Pump (with Aux or Emergency Heat) Baseboard Electric Heating or Line Voltage
(120 or 240 Volt)
|Millivolt Heat Only Systems – Floor or Wall Furnaces
Hydronic (Hot Water) Zone Heat – 3 wires
Assemble tools required: power drill, flat blade screwdriver, wire cutter/stripper, level. Failure to follow and read all instructions carefully before installing or operating this control could cause personal injury and/or property damage.
REMOVING OLD THERMOSTAT
To prevent electrical shock and/or equipment damage, disconnect electrical power to the system at the main fuse or circuit breaker until installation is complete.
Before removing wires from old thermostat’s switching subbase, label each wire with the terminal designation it was removed from.
- Remove Old Thermostat: A standard heat/cool thermostat consists of three basic parts:
- The cover, which may be either a snap-on or hinge type.
- The base, is removed by loosening all captive screws.
- The switching subbase, which is removed by unscrewing the mounting screws that hold it on the wall or adaptor plate.
Make a note here of the anticipator setting on the old thermostat for future reference and use in step 5.
The heat anticipator pointer, if adjustable, will be set at one of a series of numbers representing the current rating of the primary control in your furnace. The number will be one of the following: .2, .4, .8, etc. or 0.2, 0.4, 0.8, etc.
If no heat anticipator/indication is showing, do not be concerned; move on to the next step.
This product does not contain mercury. However, this product may replace a unit that contains mercury.
Do not open mercury cells. If a cell becomes damaged, do not touch any spilled mercury. Wearing non-absorbent gloves, take up the spilled mercury and place it into a container that can be sealed. If a cell becomes damaged, the unit should be discarded.
Mercury must not be discarded in household trash. When the unit this product is replacing is to be discarded, place in a suitable container. Refer to www.white-Rodgers.com for a location to send products containing mercury.
MOUNTING AND WIRING
- Do not use on circuits exceeding specified voltage. Higher voltage will damage control and could cause shock or fire hazards.
- Do not short out terminals on the gas valve or primary control to test. Short or incorrect wiring will damage the thermostat and could cause personal injury and/or property damage.
- Thermostat installation and all components of the system shall conform to Class II circuits per the NEC code.
- Remove the base from subbase: Loosen the screws on the base and remove.
- Mount switching subbase: Use the screws provided to mount the subbase or wallplate to the wall (see Fig. 1).
- Attach wires to appropriate terminals:
- For two wire systems (Heat Only or Cool Only). Replace the sub base with the wallplate.
If you have a two-wire Heat Only system, attach one wire to R and one to wire W. If you have a two-wire Cool Only system, attach one wire to R and one to wire to Y. Tighten any unused terminals securely. (see Fig. 5 and 6).
- If your system has more than two wires: Use the cross-reference chart to determine the correct wire connections. If you have a four-wire heat/cool system leave the factory-installed jumper between RC and RH attached (see Fig 2.). If your system has five wires remove the factory-installed jumper between RC and RH (see Fig 3.).
- Electric heat or single-stage heat pump systems: These thermostats are configured from the factory to operate a heat/cool, fossil fuel (gas, oil, etc.) forced air system. This is correct for any system that DOES NOT require the thermostat to energize the fan on a call for heat. If your system is an electric heat or heat pump system that REQUIRES the thermostat to turn on the fan on a call for heat, remove the yellow factory-installed jumper wire from the Y terminal and connect it to the A terminal. This will allow the thermostat to energize the fan immediately on a call for heat. If you are unsure if the heating system requires the thermostat to control the fan, contact a qualified heating and air conditioning service person. For single-stage heat pump applications (no auxiliary heat), install a short jumper wire (not included) across terminals W and Y. If the system has a reversing valve connection energized in Cooling, attach it to O. If the system has a reversing valve connection energized in Heating, attach it to B (see Fig. 4). This thermostat will not provide multi-stage heating or cooling.
- For two wire systems (Heat Only or Cool Only). Replace the sub base with the wallplate.
- Mount Thermostat Base: Gently push the excess wire back into the wall opening and plug the hole with a fire-resistant material, such as fiberglass insulation to prevent drafts from affecting thermostat operation. Mount the thermostat base to the subbase using the three captive screws on the thermostat base. (See Fig. 1) Tighten the screws securely. Proceed to Step #5.
Take care when securing and routing wires so they do not short to adjacent terminals or rear of the thermostat. Personal injury and/or property damage may occur.
SET HEAT ANTICIPATOR
Set the anticipator to match the setting of your old thermostat you noted in Step 3, or, the anticipator should be set to match the current rating stamped on your main heating control. The heat anticipator is adjustable from 0.15 to 1.2 amps. Adjust the anticipator by rotating the contact arm (see fig. 5). The anticipator setting is indicated by the numbers on the base that the pointer points to. If you are unsure where to set the anticipator contact the heater manufacturer for a recommended setting. Move the pointer counterclockwise to lengthen heating system cycles; move clockwise to shorten heating cycles.
Adjustments should not be greater than 1/2 marking at a time.
For millivolt operation, rotate the contact arm to Millivolt Link.
Snap-on Cover: Carefully align the cover with the base and snap the cover onto the base.
NEW THERMOSTAT OPERATION
The thermostat on Subbase. After power is turned on, use the system switch to select either heating or cooling, or to turn the heating/cooling system off. Use the fan switch to control fan operation. When the fan switch is in the AUTO position, the fan will cycle with the heating or cooling system (the fan will not run if the system switch is in the OFF position and the fan switch is in the AUTO position). When the fan switch is in the ON position, the fan will run continuously, regardless of the system switch position (even if the system switch is set to OFF, the fan will run if the fan switch is in the ON position).
Thermostat on wallplate. For heat only move the temperature lever to the highest temperature. For cool only move the temperature lever to the lowest temperature.
- Switch Rating……………………………….. 24 VAC (30 VAC max.)
- Heating………………………………………….. 0.15 to 1.2 Amps
- Cooling………………………………………….. 0 to 1.5 Amps
- Heating………………………………………….. Adjustable from 0.15 to 1.2 Amps
- Cooling………………………………………….. Fixed
- Temperature Range……………………….. 50°F to 90°F (10°C to 32°C)
- Operating Humidity Range…………….. 0 – 90% non-condensing
|No Heat/No Cool/No Fan (common problems)
|1. Blown fuse or tripped circuit breaker.
2. Furnace power switch to OFF.
3. Furnace blower compartment door or panel lose or not properly installed.
|Replace the fuse or reset the breaker. Turn the switch to ON.
Replace the door panel in the proper position to engage the safety interlock or door switch.
|1. Pilot light not lit.
2. Broken or melted anticipator wire.
3. Loose connection to thermostat or system.
4. Thermostat or heating system requires replacement or service.
5. System Switch not set to Heat.
Excessive current or dead short in the system. Have a qualified service person check the system before replacing the thermostat.
Verify thermostat and system wires are securely attached.
Your furnace manufacturer or service person can describe how to test the heating system to verify it is operating correctly. If the heating system is capable of operation and the no heat condition persists, replace the thermostat.
Set System Switch to Heat and raise temp above room temp.
|1. Furnace Lock-Out Condition
|Many furnaces have safety devices that shut the system down when a lock-out condition occurs. If the heat works intermittently contact the furnace manufacturer or local service person for assistance.
|1. Loose connection to thermostat or system.
2. Thermostat or cooling system requires replacement or service.
3. System Switch is not set to Cool.
|Verify thermostat and system wires are securely attached.
Your cooling system manufacturer or service person can describe how to test the cooling system to verify it is operating correctly. If the cooling system is capable of operation and the no cooling condition persists, replace the thermostat.
Set the System Switch to Cool and lower temp below room temp.
|Heat, Cool or Fan Runs Constantly.
|1. Possible short in the wiring.
2. Possible short in thermostat.
3. Possible short in heat/cool/fan system.
|Check each wire connection to the thermostat to verify it is neatly looped under the terminals. No extra wire should stick out from under the terminals.
|Furnace Cycles Too Fast or Too Slow Narrow or wide temperature swing
|See Step 5, Adjusting the Anticipator.
|The anticipation setting is the only adjustment that effects the heating cycle rate. If an acceptable cycle rate is not achieved using the anticipator contact a local service person for additional suggestions. The location of the thermostat, the size of the Heat/Cool System, and the current draw can influence the cycle rate.
|Cooling Cycles Too Fast or Too Slow (narrow or wide temperature swing)
|1. Poor thermostat location for sensing room temperature.
2. Cooling system over or undersized.
3. Excessive Current draw influencing thermostat.
|The cycle rate for cooling can not be adjusted. The location of the thermostat, the size of the Cool system and the current draw can influence the cycle rate. Contact a local service person for suggestions.
|Thermostat Setting and Thermostat Thermometer Disagree
|1. Thermostat thermometer setting requires adjustment.
2. Thermostat setting lever requires calibration.
|The thermometer can be adjusted by using a standard slotted screwdriver. Turn the thermometer pointer screw located inside the front cover to change the setting. For calibrating the setting lever contact a local heating and cooling service person.
|1. Thermostat thermometer disagrees with other room thermometers.
|The thermometer on the thermostat is accurately calibrated at our factory but you can adjust it by using a standard slotted screwdriver. Turn the thermometer pointer screw located inside the front cover to change the setting.
White-Rodgers is a division of Emerson Electric Co.
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